Ghent: Bruge's Ugly Step-Sister?

From Antwerp, we had the pleasure of driving to De Klinga, Belgium, to meet my Dad's childhood au pair from the early 1960s. In her mid-80s, she was cheerful and full of sharp memories, recalling names of neighbors from her short stay in New England. She even pulled out a photo album and reminisced over square images--some of which portrayed my dad and uncles--from more than 50 years ago.

From left: my grandmother, my uncle, and his au pair (early 1960s)

Telling her of our upcoming plans in Belgium, she simply cooed at the word Bruges. Aah, Bruges, yes, it's very nice. You'll love it. Her face dimmed when we told her we were staying in Ghent, which is only a 15 minute train ride from the smaller sister city. Eeh, Ghet, it's ok... She did little to conceal her lack of enthusiasm. When my father asked "is it that Ghent isn't as good as Bruges...or is it that Ghent isn't good at all?" she had to admit "Well...more the second one."

Ghent and Bruges are twin cities. Their proximity and similar city structure--both with weaving canals and little row houses--make for an easy comparison. However, Ghent seems to be the ugly step-sister that never lives up to the standards of her kin.

When we discussed our plans again with the driver who was taking us between Antwerp and De Klinga, we picked up on this troubling pattern. The driver, a gregarious father of three who himself travels often, chuckled at the word Ghent. He was enamored with Bruges, much like everyone else. He even recommended we switch hotels, if possible, to avoid the letdown of Ghent and spend our time, instead, enjoying the overwhelming beauty of Bruges.

Spelled Ghent or Gent, depending on which canvas bag, tourist book, or street sign you're reading, the little town was far less tragic than we'd anticipated after the disdain with which Belgians referred to the city. True, the canal on which we stayed looked like a fake movie set.

The row house roofs weren't visible from the front, making all the buildings look like cardboard facades with no substance. And, true, the city had but a castle and a church for touristic entertainment. But still, it was no plain Jane. Am I right?

Our hotel (The Marriott) was clean, well located, and hospitable. We enjoyed several lovely meals, took a pleasant boat ride, and laughed perversely touring through the castle's old torture chambers. My dad even boasted he'd found the best chocolate covered cherries he'd ever had at a small chocolatier near our hotel.

People scoff at Ghent like it's Bruge's ugly step-sister. But while there isn't much to do or see for a tourist city (one and a half days would suffice) it wasn't nearly the let-down all the Belgians had made it out to be.